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Van, Turkey, the church on Akdamar Island on Lake Van
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Country

Turkey

Continent

Asia

Airport

VAN

Currency

Turkish lira

Time zone

UTC+3

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Visit Lake Van, then stay for breakfast

Those who visit Lake Van discover a corner of eastern Turkey about 100 km from Iran, where four things define the trip: the lake itself, Turkey's largest, a turquoise soda lake; Akdamar Island and its 10th-century Armenian church; the Urartian citadel of Tushpa; and a breakfast so famous that the city is said to stand out for it rather than for kebabs. Add a cat breed of its own, and you have a city perched at around 1,700 m.

From Tushpa to the modern city

Van is the old Tushpa, capital of the kingdom of Urartu from the 9th to the 6th century BCE. The city had a large Armenian population until the early 20th century, and the modern town was rebuilt next to the old one. A powerful earthquake struck the region in October 2011.

A soda lake at 1,640 m

The world's largest soda lake

Lake Van covers more than 3,500 km² at an altitude of 1,640 m and reaches 451 m at its deepest. Its water is alkaline, with a pH of around 9.7, and several sources call it the largest soda lake in the world. It formed when eruptions of the Nemrut volcano blocked its outlet, and the Süphan volcano rises on its northern shore. The lake rarely freezes.

Van, the lake and snow-capped mountains in winter

The pearl mullet, the lake's only fish

The only fish historically recorded here is the pearl mullet, inci kefali or darekh, which swims up the rivers to spawn during the spring floods. You can swim, boat or camp by the lake, although the heavily mineralised water is not ideal for a proper swim; August is often cited as the best month.

The Church of the Holy Cross on its island

The Holy Cross Church was built between 915 and 921 for King Gagik I Artsruni of Vaspurakan by the architect Manuel. Its outer walls are covered with reliefs of biblical scenes and about 30 animal species. From 1116 to 1895 it was the patriarchal seat of the Catholicate of Aghtamar. Restored in 2005 and run as a museum since 2007, the church hosted its first Christian service in 95 years in September 2010.

Getting to the island

Take a dolmuş from Van to the Gevaş landing stage (about 40 to 45 km, to be checked), then a boat makes the 20 to 30 minute crossing; the island is generally open from 8 am to 5 pm. Allow 2 to 3 hours in total. The church ticket and the boat fare are paid separately. In spring, the island is covered in almond blossom.

Van Fortress, capital of Urartu

From the 9th to the 6th century BCE, the rock of Van was Tushpa, capital of the kingdom of Urartu. The lower walls are unmortared basalt, the upper ones mud brick, and a rock-cut chamber known as the royal stable measures 20 by 9 m. A trilingual cuneiform inscription of Xerxes I, from the 5th century BCE, is still crisp. The fortress lies about 5 km from the centre, is open every day from 8 am to 5 pm and is free with the Müzekart.

The Old City below

South of the rock spreads the Old City of Van, occupied from the 13th to the 20th century and on Turkey's UNESCO tentative list. There are no information panels on site, so bring a guide or read up beforehand. Take a dolmuş signed 'Kale' and walk the last stretch.

Turkey's most celebrated breakfast

On the tableWhat it is
Otlu peynirHerbed sheep cheese
MurtuğaCrispy eggs with walnuts and honey
Kaymak and honeyClotted cream and honey
Rose jamThe sweet touch of the breakfast

A Van breakfast is a long, generous spread: herbed sheep cheese (otlu peynir), murtuğa, crispy eggs with walnuts and honey, clotted cream (kaymak), honey, rose jam and the local bread roll, Van çöreği. In 2014, the city set a Guinness record for the most crowded breakfast table, with 51,793 people seated in front of the fortress. To try it, head for Kahvaltıcılar Çarşısı, the breakfast street.

The Van cat

The Turkish Van cat is white with colour on its head and tail, and it may have one eye of each colour. Yüzüncü Yıl University runs a Van Cat House conservation programme; check its location before going, as sources differ.

The Urartu museum near the fortress

The Van Museum, founded in 1945, is devoted above all to Urartu, the kingdom that ruled here some 2,700 to 2,800 years ago: weapons, everyday objects and stelae with cuneiform inscriptions, plus Stone Age items, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman pieces and a fine collection of kilims. A new building near the fortress opened to the public in 2019.

Before you go

Guides list it as open Tuesday to Sunday, but hours and fees change, so check the official Turkish museums website (muze.gov.tr) before setting out. It pairs easily with the fortress in the same half day.

Citadels, a waterfall and crater lakes around Van

ExcursionFrom VanWhat to expect
ÇavuştepeAbout 25 kmUpper and lower Urartian citadels built by Sarduri II
Hoşap CastleAbout 60 kmA castle whose gate is dated 1643
Muradiye WaterfallAbout 80 to 90 kmA waterfall to the north; avoid weekends and holidays, when it gets crowded
AhlatFull-day tripA Seljuk cemetery on the lake shore with tombstones from the 12th to the 16th century
Nemrut craterFull-day tripThe volcano and its crater lakes, on the western side of Lake Van

A hire car or a taxi for the day is the most practical way to reach these sites; distances are approximate and worth checking.

Ferit Melen Airport, 5 km from the centre

VAN

Van Ferit Melen

About 5 km southwest of the centre, roughly 15 minutes by taxi or dolmuş (signed 'Hava Alanı'). Flights link Van with Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Antalya and Adana, depending on the airline and the season; from Istanbul, expect a flight of around 2 to 2.5 hours (to be checked).

Taxis wait outside arrivals; check direct-flight schedules, which vary by season.

JourneyApproximate timeGood to know
VAN to the centreAbout 15 minutesTaxi or dolmuş; about 5 km
Centre to Van FortressAbout 10 to 15 minutesAbout 5 km, by 'Kale' dolmuş or taxi
Centre to Gevaş (Akdamar landing)About 45 minutesAbout 40 to 45 km, by dolmuş or car (to be checked)
Van to DoğubayazıtAbout 2.5 hoursBy bus or dolmuş, according to guides (to be checked); flying is simpler from western Turkey

Dolmuş, taxis and a hire car

The centre of Van is walkable, but the fortress and the lake shore call for a vehicle. Dolmuşes (shared minibuses) and taxis cover everything beyond walking distance; you pay the driver as you board, usually in cash. For Akdamar, take a dolmuş to Gevaş, then the boat.

For day trips

Hoşap, Çavuştepe, Muradiye and Ahlat are easiest by hire car or a taxi for the day, as public transport there is sparse.

Cold winters, mild summers

Spring

May is one of the best months (a mean of around 13 degrees C), and almond trees blossom on Akdamar Island.

Summer

Mild at altitude, with a July and August mean of around 22 degrees C and very little rain; August is ideal for the lake.

Autumn

September and October are among the best months to visit, with days that are still pleasant.

Winter

Harsh, with a January mean of around -3 degrees C and frequent snow; pack very warm clothes.

How many days, what budget, what formalities

Day 1

City and fortress

The rock of Tushpa, the Van Museum, then a long breakfast on Kahvaltıcılar street.

Day 2

Gevaş and Akdamar

The boat crossing, the Holy Cross church and a walk along the lake.

Day 3

Around the lake

Çavuştepe, Hoşap, the Muradiye waterfall or Ahlat, as you prefer.

Recommended length

Two to three days: one for the city and its fortress, one for Gevaş and Akdamar, and one more for day trips.

Cost level

Moderate (to be checked): meals, dolmuşes and taxis stay affordable; accommodation and full-day excursions are the main expenses.

Entry rules and common sense

Depending on your nationality, an e-visa or an exemption applies: check the official site evisa.gov.tr and your own authorities (to be checked). Eastern and southeastern regions may carry specific travel advice from some governments, so consult your country's official guidance before you travel. The region is seismically active, so follow local instructions. In mosques and churches, cover shoulders and knees.

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Van in pictures

Van, the church on Akdamar Island on Lake Van
Van, the lake and snow-capped mountains in winter

Frequently asked questions about flights to Van

Which airport serves Van and how far is it from the centre?

Van Ferit Melen Airport (VAN), about 5 km southwest of the centre, roughly 15 minutes by taxi or dolmuş. From Istanbul, expect a flight of around 2 to 2.5 hours (to be checked).

When is the best time to visit Van?

May, June, September and October are the most recommended months; summer is also fine, and August is ideal for the lake. Winters are very cold and snowy.

Is Van an expensive destination?

No, the cost level is moderate (to be checked): meals, dolmuşes and taxis stay affordable; accommodation and full-day excursions are the main expenses.

How many days do you need in Van?

Two to three days: one for the city and the fortress, one for Gevaş and Akdamar Island, and one more for the citadels and waterfall nearby.

How do you get around Van and reach Akdamar Island?

On foot in the centre and by dolmuş or taxi beyond. For Akdamar, take a dolmuş to Gevaş (about 40 to 45 km, to be checked), then the boat, a 20 to 30 minute crossing; allow 2 to 3 hours for the visit.

What is a Van breakfast?

A long spread of herbed sheep cheese, murtuğa, clotted cream, honey, rose jam and Van çöreği, best tried on Kahvaltıcılar Çarşısı, the breakfast street.

Can you swim in Lake Van?

Yes, swimming, boating and camping are possible. The water is alkaline and salty, and only one fish, the pearl mullet, lives in it.

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